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Projects & Frequently Asked Questions:
2016 Straits Tpke. Rt. 63
Middlebury, Conn. 06762
(203) 598-0737
Q.What are Snyder Pools current construction projects?
A.Currently, Snyder Pools is building pools in many surrounding towns, probably very close to your neighborhood!  If you would like to see our work first hand, just give us a call.  With homeowners' permission, we would be happy to make arrangements to bring you by a jobsite.

Q.What are the Regulations for putting a pool in my back yard?
A.Part of Snyder Pools' service is to insure compliance with all state and local building regulations and regulations related to pool construction.  These regulations vary from town to town.  Here are some links to some area towns that show their regulations:  Watertown, Waterbury, Southbury, Thomaston.  Additionally, if you have a septic system in your back yard, you may be required to obtain a permit from the sanitation department that governs your town such as Chesprocott or Pomperaug Health District.

Q.Why do you recommend vinyl liner over fiberglass or gunnite?
A.If Snyder Pools were located in southern California or the desert southwest, the answer to this question would be different.  However, in the northeast, we have winters.  That's no surprise but we also have spring thaws and large amounts of groundwater at certain times of the year.  This freeze/thaw cycle coupled with changing elevations in the water table can cause severe damage to rigid framed pools such as gunnite or fiberglass tubs.  We have actually seen tub pools pop out of the ground and gunnite pools crack.  A vinyl liner pool with a porous vermiculite floor has the ability to adjust to ambient ground conditions with minimal disruption to the structural integrity of the pool.  Additionally, the cost and maintenance associated with gunnite and fiberglass pools can be exponentially greater than a vinyl liner pool.

Q.How is an in-ground pool actually built?
A.The process for building an in-ground swimming pool is very involved and each back yard is different.  Here, you will see the basics of how a pool is actually constructed.  While every project requires unique attention and the ability for the pool builder to react to unforeseen circumstances in an instant, Snyder Pools makes it a policy not to leave your back yard until your project is complete.  While this may not be the most efficient to build the maximum amount of pools per year, it means a limited disruption of your yard for a week or so, not months!
























Q.What do I do to close my pool for the winter?
A.Every swimming pool is different and many need specialized attention.  However, some basics apply no matter what type of pool you have.  Snyder Pools can help you with details but these are some of the steps you should follow:
1)Lower pool water to just below the skimmer
2)Treat water with winter grade algaecide and plenty of shock
3)Disconnect filter, pump and remove other peripherals
4)If in-ground pool, blow out all plumbing lines and heater
- Plug lines with screw-type plugs with new "O" Rings
5)Add sufficient amount of swimming pool antifreeze
6)Place winter cover over pool insuring no water gets on top
- Try to refrain from using air pillows under cover or floating chemical dispensers
7)Secure cover to pool using cable or water bags
- NEVER use rocks, blocks, or hanging bottles
8) Use a cover pump to keep cover dry so it doesn't pull in and leaves accumulate

Q.What do I do to open my pool for the summer?
A.Again, each pool has it's own requirements but basically opening a swimming pool entails the following:
1)Raise water to operating level
2)Remove cover and store neatly with water bags
3)Re-connect filter, pump and other peripherals
4)Remove plugs in plumbing lines
5)Add sufficient algaecide and shock in accordance with pool water condition
6)Start filter, add filter media, run and vacuum if necessary

Q.How can I make sure my pool is safe?
A.There are many new laws and regulations requiring fencing, electrical standards, door alarms, self latching gates, pool alarms, etc.  While most families are diligent about ensuring the safety of their swimming pool, there is still no substitute for adequate supervision of young children and education of older kids.  Snyder Pools can help you with these issues and carries a full line of door and pool alarms made by Poolguard.

Q.Can Snyder Pools open/close my pool?
A.Absolutely!  You can contract the professionals of Snyder Pools to open and/or close your pool.  They can do the complete job or just the hard parts.  BOOK EARLY!  Snyder Pools opens and closes over 600 swimming pools a year so make sure to call early to get the date you want.

Q.My pool seems to be loosing water.  What do I do?
A.This is a common question.  The first think to do is isolate the source of the suspected leak.  Keep in mind, on cool, dry, breezy days and nights, you pool can appear to lose up to an inch of water!  Look around your pump and plumbing for leaks.  If it's an above ground pool, check the wall fittings and around the outside bottom of the wall for wet areas.  If you have eliminated evaporation and exterior sources for leaks, it's probably the liner.  Don't despair though.  Shut your filter off and scour the bottom of the pool with a mask looking for what appears to be a leaf or dirt spot that won't move.  If you think it's a leak, squirt a small amount of food coloring near the spot in calm water to see if the coloring gets sucked into the hole.  Once you've found the leak, there are some very good patch kits available.  YOU WILL NOT SEE BUBBLES!!!  This question always comes up.  A hole in a liner will not produce bubbles.  Imagine holding a plastic bag filled with water and popping the bottom with a pin.  No bubbles will occur here either!  If you absolutely cannot find the leak, a pressure test may be needed to rule-out underground plumbing leaks or a diver may be needed to scan the liner bottom.

Q.What are my options for water sanitizing?
A.Water sanitizing is a necessary process for maintaining clean, safe pool water.  There are a vast number of options in this area.  Listed here are a few of the most common options.  You should consider cost, effectiveness, side effects and ease of use when deciding which sanitizer to use.
- Cyanuric Acid Based Chlorine:  This type of chlorine is the most effective type of chlorine available for the money.  It is available in quick or slow dissolving tablets.  Quick tabs can be used every 2-3 days in the skimmer to achieve the recommended chlorine ppm.  NEVER use quick tabs in an automatic chlorinator.  Slow tabs can be used in a chlorinator or skimmer but you should always run your filter when they are in the skimmer to reduce the risk of liner bleaching.
- Calcium Based Chlorine:  This type of chlorine is usually powdered and available in large drums.  It is relatively inexpensive and varies in available chlorine percentages.  It is sometimes dangerous and unstable to have around and can cause an unattractive build-up of residual calcium in the pool.  Broadcasting of this type of chlorine can also cause liner bleaching.  Snyder Pools does not recommend the use of this type of sanitizer which is commonly available at home centers and mass-merchants.
- Lithium Chloride:  Lithium is comparatively expensive but probably the best of the halide sanitizers.  It is relatively hypoallergenic and does not tend to dry your skin or hair.  It is available in a powder and dissolves very well when broadcast over the surface of the water.
- Bromine:  Bromine is another halogen element for water sanitizing.  Primarily reserved for spas, bromine is best suited for warm water and smaller bodies of water.
- Sodium Ionizers:  If you remember back to high school chemistry, salt is a chemical compound of sodium and chlorine (NaCl).  With an ionizer, salty water passes through the apparatus that splite the bond between the sodium and chlorine causing natural chlorine gas to be bubbled through your pool water, thus sanitizing it.  Sodium is filtered out as a by-product.  YES, this means you add salt to your pool.  If you don't mind salty water, you may mind the increased corrosion that salt water brings.
- Reactive Metals:  In this type of apparatus, water passes over a reactive metal plumbed into your return lines.  This causes bacteria and other impurities to be removed.  While this does drastically reduce the amount of chlorine needed, your pool still has to be shocked.  The metal also corrodes and needs replacing periodically which can be very expensive.
- UV Sanitizers:  With this, water passes through an ultraviolet light tube that sanitizes the water.  Again, these systems require some chlorination and the lighting elements don't last forever and can be expensive.
-  Biguanides:  These types of chemicals have become less popular over the years.  While it's true they do have an ability to reduce dry skin and hair, they are nothing more than a program that locks you into using all the products associated with the biguanide sanitizer.  Other chemicals are incompatible and the biguanide chemicals tend to be very expensive.

Q.What is cyanuric acid (stabilizer) and why do I need it?
A.Cyanuric acid is also called stabilizer.  It is a chemical that tends to reduce the dissipation of residual chlorine due to rain, sunlight, bather load, etc.  Snyder Pools can test for stabilizer in your water.  It usually requires a once-yearly supplement.

Q.What exactly is pH?
A.PH stands for "potential Hydrogen" and is the measure of the Hydrogen-ion concentration of a substance.  Everything has a pH and it's measured on a scale from 1-14, 1 being VERY acidic, 7 being neutral and 14 being very basic.  In order for a sanitizer to be effective, your pool water should be slightly acidic or near neutral.  When algae or bacteria is present, lowering the pH (making the water more acidic) will help but be careful, a low pH can cause skin/eye irritation and corrosion.  PH chemicals are available, pH+ will raise the pH, making the water more basic (less acidic) after a rainstorm for instance.  pH- will lower the pH, making the water more acidic (less basic).

Q.What exactly is total alkalinity?
A.The total alkalinity (TA) is a measure of how much of the alkaline substances there are in the water. In the swimming pool water, we are concerned with bicarbonate alkalinity, which should be between 80 ppm and 120 ppm.  When the total alkalinity (TA) is within this range, it prevents rapid pH changes and "stabilizes" the pH level.  If the TA is too low, plaster walls will become etched, metals corrode, the pool's walls and floor can stain, the water can turn green, eyes burn and we can have pH bounce (pH rapidly going up and down, seemingly at random).  If the TA is too high, the pH is difficult to adjust, the water becomes cloudy, the pool constantly needs acid (according to your test kit) and the chlorine loses its efficiency as a disinfectant.  It is recommended that you test the TA regularly, but in practice it changes very little in a well-maintained pool.

Q.What do I do if my pool water is green?
A.Probably the most common color your pool water can turn, you should isolate the cause of green.  Green can commonly be caused by algae or copper.  Just as The Statue of Liberty started out a copper color, it turned green after oxidizing.  The green is cupric oxide, or "copper rust".  This is usually indicated by a clear emerald green color that may appear shortly after chlorination.  If this is the case, a metal removing chemical should be added and the filter backwashed shortly after the discoloration fades.  If a slimy, cloudy green is present, it's most likely algae.  Adding shock and algaecide will clear the problem.

Q.What do I do if my pool water is brown?
A.Brown water is most commonly the result of hard water or Iron.  Adding a mineral canceling agent to the water will clear this problem.  You may also notice brown or rusty deposits on surfaces of the pools.

Q.What do I do if my pool water is cloudy?
A.Cloudy water is generally attributed to inadequate filtration, low Cl, high pH, algae or a combination of these conditions.  The first thing you should do is check your filter and be sure it doesn't need backwashing.  Run filter constantly until problem clears.  Lower pH if needed and add a recommended dose of shock and algaecide.  A "flocking" agent can also be added for faster results.  This is available in either liquid or powder.

Q.What do I do if I suspect my pool has algae?
A.Algae comes in many forms - most commonly green.  Black, white, and pink are also common although the white pink varieties are not true algae.  White is a water mold and pink is a bacterium.  Green algae will sometimes cloud the water and cause a slimy residue on pool surfaces.  If evident, reduce pH, shock pool and add recommended dose of algaecide.  Pink and white algae are also relatively simple to get rid of by following the same procedure.  Black algae can be the most stubborn and may require a strong, specialized treatment.

Q.Will too much chlorine burn my eyes?
A.NO!  This is a common pool myth.  Low pH (acidic water) will cause eye and skin irritation.  At a lower pH, chlorine will not as readily remain in solution and begin to sublimate causing a stronger than usual chlorine odor which may lead people to believe there is too much chlorine in the water.

Q.Will chlorine turn my hair green?
A.NO!  Another myth, chlorine will not turn hair green.  Most commonly, this is caused by copper or other minerals in the pool that react adversely with hair care products.  If this occurs, there are special shampoos available that can remedy the situation.

Q.Can I bring my pool water to Snyder Pools to be tested?
A.Absolutely!  Snyder Pools doesn't use a fancy computerized testing system.  This isn't a bad thing.  Most testing software on the market is developed by chemical manufacturers who taylor their software to favor selling their chemicals.  Not that there's anything wrong with this but the Professionals at Snyder Pools rely on industrial grade reagents and testing strips to thoroughly analyze your swimming pool water.  When bringing a sample to the store, it is best to use a glass container.  Hold the container upside down and dip it into the water at least elbow-length, turning it over and bringing the sample to the surface.  Cap the container and bring to the store as quickly as possible.  Leaving the sample in your car for any length of time will adversely effect the readings.  There is no charge for this service.

Q.What's the difference between sand, DE and cartridge filters?
A.The difference between the filters has to do with the media used to clean the water.  Sand filters use sand similar to beach sand.  These filters generally require less maintenance but will have to be run longer.  DE filters are most common and use a fine white powder called Diatomaceous Earth as their filter media.  As a fine powder, these filters will remove smaller particulate matter.  This means you don't have to run the filter as long and your water will clear quicker.  Cartridge filters use a paper cartridge to filter the water and are generally reserved for spas and smaller pools.

Q.Why is my DE filter is shooting clouds of DE into the pool?
A.A brief "puff" of DE visible from the return jets is normal.  If there is a lot of DE returning to the pool or it is evident on the pool floor, this indicates a problem with your filter.  If you have a "grid" filter, this could mean a torn grid or cracked underdrain.  Both can be repaired relatively simply and inexpensively.  If you nave a "Perflex" type filter, you most likely have torn fingers or cracked pressure plates which is commonly caused by forced bumping.  Again, neither of these is a huge issue.  Snyder Pools has the parts available if you wish to tackle the project yourself or leave your filter to be fixed in our shop.

Q.My filter seems to have lost power.  What do I do?
A.If you filter's performance becomes markedly reduced, the first thing you should do is check the pressure on the gauge.  If it is high (>15-20psi), it is time to clean the filter.  Backwash or clean as indicated.  Don't rule out the possibility of debris caught in your skimmer or other suction lines.  As a last resort, check the performance of your pump.

Q.How long should I run my filter?
A.While this is subjective to your pool and back yard, generally DE filters should run 12-18 hours a day during the hottest part of the season.  And YES!  Run the filter when people are using the pool.  The agitation causes dirt to be stirred up and filtered out.  It's like a free vacuuming!  There is no risk of electrocution if your pool was installed by professionals and wired/grounded by a professional electrician.

Q.My gas heater isn't firing.  What do I do?
A.Here are some questions to ask yourself:
Is the system switch on?
Is the thermostat up to temperature?
Is the pump running with a clean filter?
Is the gas valve in the on position?
Is the pilot lit?
Is the gas supply valve open?
Are all plumbing and filter valves open?
Most commonly, if your filter is dirty, the heater won't fire.  Gas heaters have a safety pressure switch built into the system that doesn't allow the heater to fire if there isn't enough water going through the heater.  This is to protect your heater and plumbing.  If you've answered the rest of these questions, it might be time to call Snyder Pools to diagnose the problem.

Other common heater issues include:

The pilot won't light?
This could be due to low gas pressure, inadequate air supply, or improper venting. Make sure gas is turned on; with propane, make sure the tank has fuel. Also check for water run-off from roof or sprinklers. Check to make sure the heater pilot tubing is intact and not clogged.

Heater won't reach the desired temperature?
The thermostat may be set too low. If the heat loss is greater than the heater input - the heater may be too small, outside air temperature is too low, inadequate gas supply. You may want to install a solar cover to slow heat loss. All heaters have high limit switches to prevent overheating. A faulty high limit could shut off the heater, or the problem could be that the heater is truly overheating, perhaps from improper exhaust.

The heater cycles on and off before it reaches the desired temperature?
Inadequate water flow due to a dirty filter, closed valve, external bypass needs adjusting, reversed water connections, or pressure switch out of adjustment. It is also possible that your thermostat is out of calibration or needs replacing.

Why do I need to frequently relight my pilot?
See previous two questions for additional information. Also check for water run off from above or sprinklers directed at heater. A high wind stack may be needed due to heater location.  Millivolt models have a thermocouple or pilot generator that may be faulty or weak. Loose or rusty connections of the thermocouple to the gas valve or loose coil connection, or short in these wires can shut off a pilot.

I hear "clicking" or "sparking," but my heater will not ignite
Review to the pool heater owner's manual. if you do not find your answer, turn the heater off and contact a qualified service company. Make sure that the gas valves are all in the on position, and if LP, check the gauge on the tank.

The heater is leaking water
The pool heater heat exchanger may be leaking because of chemical or sanitizer damage. The damage may be from winter freeze - usually leaking upon spring start-up. There could be a gasket leaking, or a loose connection to the pressure switch.

The heater appears to leak only when the burner is lit
This may be caused by condensation and is normal (occurring when heating very cold water); a missing or damaged bypass; or excessive water flow through the heater from an oversized pump. Check the heat exchanger for sooting, and make sure the internal bypass is working. Install an external pool heater bypass if necessary.

Heater top blackened and/or emitting dark exhaust
Either low gas pressure and/or inadequate air supply and venting, review the installation requirements in the pool heater Owner's Manual.  Both conditions may need to be evaluated by a Snyder Pools service technician. This is called sooting and could lead to other problems.

The heater has damage due to excessive heat. Why?
One, or a combination of the following: low gas pressure, downdrafting, air supply, and venting. The heater may need a high wind stack, if installed near a vertical wall or windy area. Make sure that the heater is installed with proper clearances all around the outside. Pool Heaters can catch adjacent structures on fire.

I have rust returned into my pool
Sanitizers or chemical imbalance can deteriorate protective coatings on heater components and create rust. Rebalance chemicals and replace damaged components. Make sure any chemical feeders are installed after the heater, and place a check valve between the two to prevent backflow.

My heater whistles
Low gas pressure can cause whistling in the burners. Check your Owner's Guide or contact your gas installer.

Do Hayward heaters need heat sinks or a fireman's switch?
No. Hayward heaters cool down immediately after shut down.

What should my heater be set on?
All heaters should be installed on a non-combustible material, such as concrete or block. It must not have any structures above it, if installed outdoors, including tree branches within 4 feet. Consult owner's manuals for clearances around all four sides of your pool heater.

Can heaters be installed indoors?
Yes, specific conditions apply. Please consult your owner's manual for complete details. They must be vented to the outside in a very specific manner, and have enough influent air to combust properly. Improperly installed pool heaters have the potential to cause fatalities from carbon monoxide emissions, or gas explosions.


How much fuel does my heater use?
Propane heaters use one gallon of fuel per hour for each 91,000 BTU's of heater input.
Example: A 250,000 BTU heater uses: 250,000/91,000 = 2.75 gallon per hour
Natural gas heaters use one therm (100,000) BTU per 100,000 BTU's heater size. Your gas is usually billed by therms.

How can I save on my heating costs?
- Purchase an energy efficient model.
- Use a pool blanket on your swimming pool when not in use.
- Keep the temperature at the lowest comfortable position.
- Remember to not turn up the heater to maximum, (it will not heat any faster) But set it at a known setting for your desired maximum temp.
- Turn heater off or to a low setting during periods of non use.
- Wind is one of the largest heat thieves. Fences or shrubbery can reduce the effect that wind will have on pool heat loss.



Q.How long will the sand or DE last in my filter?
A.This is very subjective depending upon your pool size, dirt, debris and algae level and usage.   Sand will last one or two seasons.  DE charges may only last a few weeks.  The best determining factor is to watch the pressure gauge for radical increases in pressure.

Q.Do I really have to wait 1/2 hour after eating before I go in the pool?
A.It all depends on what you've eaten.  If you've had a light meal with no alcohol, there's no point in waiting that long. But if you've eaten steak, you should really wait a few hours.  The reason is simple, foods that are rich in fat are harder to digest than carbohydrates. It takes more oxygen to metabolize them, so they aren't as good a source of energy for physical activity.  Muscle cramping is not necessarily caused by swimming in particular, but by any physical exertion.  However, if you have cramps in the water, it can be a catastrophe.  Parents may keep their children out of the water after a meal because of a false belief that there's a link between digestion and fainting while swimming.  The real cause of fainting in the water is the heart's reaction to the shock of the cold water on very hot skin. It is true that body temperature rises during digestion, increasing the risk of shock, but this can happen even several hours after eating. A lengthy sunbath can have the same result.  A rise of even a few degrees in body temperature can cause dizziness, heatstroke and even death. 






(c) 2005-08 Snyder Pools, Inc.  This document may be freely redistributed in its entirety, or in part if it includes an attribution containing the title, "Snyder Pools, Inc.", the version date, and the webmaster's name\. No part of it may be sold for profit or incorporated in a commercial document without the permission of the copyright holder. Permission is expressly granted for complete electronic copies to be made available as an archive or mirror service on the condition that the copy be kept up to date.

This document is provided as is without any express or implied warranties. While some effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained herein, the webmasterer assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from use of the information contained herein.
#1 - Pool Site marked and dug
#2 - Pool walls layed out and assembled.  Exclusive turnbuckle bracing put in place
#3 - After plumbing near the pool, concrete is pourd around the entire pool.
#4 - Close-up of concrete collar anchoring pool walls.
#5 - Particular attention is paid to stair supports.
#6 - Vermiculite is mixed and trowled over entire pool floor and hopper.
#7 - Vermiculite is readied to accept liner installation.
#8 - Final plumbing and equipment installation is done.
#9 - Liner is fit into place with vacuum suction while wrinkles are worked out.
#10 - Now it's time for water!  Snyder Pools are constructed so securely, they can be filled prior to backfilling!
#11 - After backfilling with clean earth, the pool is complete and a temporary fence installed.
#12 - After sufficient time is allotted for settling, the deck can be poured.  All that's left is the burgers and beer!